Diary of a Return to California — Wines, Terroir, and Friends (from Napa to Sonoma)

The connection is special. Returning to California is much more than just crossing the ocean — which is why, if the opportunity arises, I always take it. So this year, back I went, to reconnect with friends and terroirs, and with wineries and wines that continue to surprise me. For seven days, we explored mountains, vineyards, and grape varieties — always with open hearts and full glasses. And the feeling, of course, is that I’ll be back!

Day 1 – Chateau Montelena & Peter Michael: Starting in Style

We began with a Napa Valley icon: Chateau Montelena. This is where it all changed, thanks to the historic 1973 Chardonnay — winner of the famous Judgment of Paris — which forever altered the perception of American wine around the world. Today, it remains a family-run project full of class. The historic building is striking, and the gardens capture the true spirit of Napa. The wines honor the past with nobility.

In the afternoon, we headed north to Peter Michael Winery, in Knights Valley. The setting is of rare natural beauty — vineyards surrounded by forest, almost like an oasis. Winemaker Robert Fiori, a geologist by training, gave us a true masterclass on the volcanic origin of the soils — a direct result of Mount St. Helena’s eruption. The wines? Pure precision.

Day 2 – Hanzell Farm: A Revelation

Some discoveries leave a deep mark — and Hanzell Farm, on the slopes of Sonoma, was one of them. With vines planted in the 1950s and cultivated organically, the wines (especially the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir) showed rare elegance and finesse. A pure expression of terroir. Straight into my list of California favorites.

Day 3 – Continuum & Frog’s Leap: The New Napa Spirit

Back in Napa, we visited Continuum Estate — the latest chapter in the Mondavi family legacy, in Pritchard Hill. Everything here is about precision: organic farming, a stunning modern winery with breathtaking views, and wines that echo Bordeaux but with a California soul. The 2022 red was unforgettable.

Later, we visited Frog’s Leap, in Rutherford — one of Napa’s few dry-farmed wineries. That alone deserves respect! Everything is organic, and our conversation with Frank Leeds (viticulturist and VP) was one of those moments that reminds us why we do what we do. Vibrant wines, and a Cabernet Franc that stuck with me.

Day 4 – Three Sticks: Sonoma at Heart

Some projects touch you more deeply, and Three Sticks is one of those. Owners of iconic vineyards like Durell, Gap’s Crown, and Walala, they also farm three monopole sites with incredibly strong identities. We toured vineyards, the winery, did a barrel tasting, and ended the visit at the beautiful Vallejo–Castañeda Adobe, in downtown Sonoma. Standouts: the Gap’s Crown Pinot Noir and the Alana Chardonnay. True love.

Day 5 – Knights Bridge & Hudson Ranch: Perfect Contrasts

In the morning, we returned to Knights Valley to visit Knights Bridge Vineyard — a modern project beautifully integrated into the landscape. Winemaker Derek Baljeu guided us through barrel and bottle tastings with real passion. Tense Chardonnays, silky Cabernets — exceptional work.

In the afternoon, we headed south to Carneros, near San Francisco Bay, to visit Hudson Ranch — a working farm with multiple crops but where the vines truly shine. The tasting with winemaker Andrew Holve revealed wines with Napa’s classic profile: intense, structured, and unforgettable.

Day 6 – Arista & Williams Selyem: Russian River in Detail

This day was fully dedicated to the Russian River Valley. We started at Arista, a boutique winery producing precise, terroir-driven wines. Winemaker Matt Courtney is focused on getting the very best from each vineyard — and it shows.

In the afternoon, we had a special visit to Williams Selyem, with my friend Jeff Mangahas. Tasting from barrel with him is always a privilege. The differences between vineyard lots are striking, and the technical work is brilliant. The surprise? A Cabernet Sauvignon from the mythical To Kalon Vineyard. Monumental.

Day 7 – Cambria & Raj Parr: Wines with Soul

We drove down the coast to Cambria to meet one of the most respected figures in American wine: Raj Parr. Formerly a sommelier, he is now fully dedicated to farming. Everything is organic, on clay-limestone soils with strong Pacific influence. The vineyards have soul — and the wines even more so. Raj is a true winegrower. Pure inspiration.

Trip Extras – NBA, MLB, and Fine Dining

Because it’s not all about wine: I managed to catch an NBA playoff game — Golden State Warriors vs. Minnesota Timberwolves — Curry vs. Anthony Edwards, a true generational clash. What a game! I also made it to a Major League Baseball classic, watching the San Francisco Giants, more for the festive atmosphere and the hotdogs this time.

On the food front, two highlights stood out:

Saison – Fire, Essence, and Precision

In the heart of San Francisco, Saison is much more than a Michelin-starred restaurant. It’s a sanctuary of fire, precision, and deep respect for ingredients. The open kitchen, centered on a massive wood-fired grill, creates a direct connection between guests and the primal act of cooking — raw, ancestral, instinctive.

Chef Richard Lee is a true artist. He leads the experience with a culinary language that is precise, elegant, and deeply sensory. The meal was a sequence of pure, unforgettable flavors: wild salmon, tuna, and sea urchin were served in minimalist preparations that revealed the full essence of the sea. Pure taste. The venison? Delicate, precise — profoundly moving.

Wine service was flawless, with Danielle Palombi shining in the dining room. Just back from a visit to Portugal, she enthusiastically shared her admiration for our wines — it was a source of pride to hear Portuguese producers being praised in such a prestigious setting.

More than a meal, Saison offers a journey to the very soul of cooking. I’m already longing to return — with time, with attention, with appetite.

Lazy Bear – Haute Cuisine with Heart and Community

In San Francisco, Lazy Bear is a rare case of informality and excellence in perfect harmony. The evening started in the best possible way: Jacob Brown, the house’s incredible sommelier, personally welcomed us and took us straight to the restaurant’s spectacular wine cellar — a real treasure trove. Right there, surrounded by legendary bottles and stories, he opened a Champagne I’ll never forget. What a start.

The cuisine is creative, technical, and full of soul. But what impressed me the most was the purity of the vegetables. I had never tasted vegetables with so much flavor, so much identity, so much truth. Every preparation showed deep respect for the product and a rare ability to elevate it without disguising it. A lesson in how simplicity, when done right, can be deeply moving.

The service is close, almost conspiratorial, reinforcing the sense of sharing and excitement at the table. The wine list is eclectic and smart — bold choices sit alongside timeless classics, all carefully selected by Jacob, whose knowledge, sensitivity, and presence are remarkable.

Lazy Bear is a restaurant that blends haute cuisine technique with the warm spirit of a special dinner among friends. One of the greatest dining experiences I’ve ever had. A night to remember.

End of the Trip, Heart Full

This trip was a reunion — with friends, with landscapes that inspire me, and with wines that challenge me. California remains a happy place. And whenever I can, I return. Because there are places like this — that make us feel at home, even thousands of kilometers away.