Food Tables. Where I most enjoy losing myself in Alentejo

I was born in Lisbon, my origins are from around Serra da Estrela, but I rendered to Alentejo. It doesn’t make much sense, because it’s a city vs. mountain vs. plains, it’s a mess that one can only understand because in 2005 I moved to Mora, due to my first winemaking job.

It was from Mora that I started to lose myself on the plains and to truly understand who these people are, or what’s the heat of that place – and I not talking temperature wise, but of people, of how selfless they are, the way to others and their lives.

Alentejo is within me, and the best part is, discounting the sentimentalism, it also gets to me through the gastronomic side. I surrendered myself to the simple Alentejo’s table, I am a slave to all that, from the bread to the olive oil, of the ripe tomatoes like no place else, of the meat pots, the delicacies, the pots, the game meat, the aromatic herbs that are not poor at all, because they make everything so rich…

The best part of Alentejo’s cuisine is that it surrounds you, in the excellent restaurant famous for decades, or the village’s pub that no one else knows about. If there is a place in this world where sharing makes sense then that place is called Alentejo. So here I leave you with my humble suggestions. If you know them already, lucky you, we might meet there one of these days. If you don’t, let me know when you go.

A Palmeira – Cabeção

There is no discussion. Here reside the best asparagus migas of the world!we must remember that in Alentejo when we speak about asparagus, we don’t mean the stalky things in the supermarket shelves. They are wild asparagus, those soft and acid sprouts that you find after the first rain. The one who gets here should also try the pot soup, made with pigeons. Everything is well made, from the starters to the clay pot wines produced right next door. For those who can’t resist torresmos, it’s better to stay home.

O Afonso – Mora

It is a great institution of Alentejo. Open for almost 60 years; it has a partridge Dona Bia way, which is drowned in a sauce, that is Alentejo, over some slices of fried bread. It is to die for. And the hare bean stew? And what about the wine selection, that is one of the best in all Alentejo? Do you now understand why O Afonso became my canteen from 2005 on?

Adega Velha – Mourão

No one that lives on this planet should leave without meeting Joaquim Bação. You shouldn’t reduce Joaquim to the first question he always asks when he sees you: white or red? The wine will only be the beginning of the endless conversation with one of the most passionate people on earth. Generally, around a chickpea stew, or any other of the regional dishes prepared there. Only one note: between the clay pots, the regional crafts and corners filled with tradition, it is safe to say this is one of the most beautiful restaurants around.

A Chana do Bernardino – Aldeia da Serra D’Ossa

The Chana do Bernardino starts immediately with an epic moment, the introduction speech of Bernardino, it’s a kind of intention declaration, and humility, letting you know what you should expect. After that, you go, but you always come back. Just a quick note for the “pézinhos de coentrada.” Probably the best ones ever!

Toy Farois – Porto de Peles

A charcoal grill and meat. Is it possible to shine based on this? No one knows black pork on a grill like Toy.  The spareribs or the black pork “lagartos” will make you cry with joy. Yes, they come with potato chips (fried in olive oil) and a proper tomato salad: bright red and ripe, with grainy sea salt.

País das Uvas – Vila de Frades

Key Word here: Silarcas! It’s a wild mushroom that you’ll find in abundance over here. You eat them grilled, as a starter, with scrambled eggs or even in a lamb stew. If you are looking for a surprise, this might be the place for that and much much more.

O Poço – Brotas

Hidden away in a small village of Mora, it is a hymn to the traditional homemade meals of Alentejo. It’s the Vinagre family that runs the place, taking you to the endless pleasures of asparagus “migas,” stewed partridge and amazing conventual desserts.

A Maria – Alandroal

Another great option right in the middle of Alentejo where one should go. Everything is very well prepared and cooked! Long live the aromatic herbs!

Botequim da Mouraria – Évora

It is my favorite in Évora, and you know how many good restaurants Évora has. My friend Domingos and his wife always welcome us with a smile. There is only space for eight people, and you should go with time because Domingos’s suggestions will keep you for a while. It’s one those places that make you get out of bed early and drive 200km’s to go and have lunch.

Tasca do Montinho – Avis

It is tomato Paradise. The best tomatoes of Alentejo! You arrive and ask for a tomato “migas.” With what? It doesn’t matter. You will order more of the tomato “migas”; they are out of this world good!

O Alpendre – Arraiolos

It won’t be easy going to the Alpendre and eat after the starters. It is a feast of starters and little delicacies, all of them of great quality.

Adega do Isaias – Estremoz

It is one of those very singular places. In an old cellar, filled with clay pots. The “burras no forno” is epic, and the game “caldeirada” is memorable.

Well, you won’t lack good options. And the best part is that you can always find another one because Alentejo is a kind of paradise stopped in time that ends up always surprising you. There aren’t many things better than grabbing your car and have lunch in Alentejo. Have a nice trip!