What if Portuguese white wines were world-class wines?!

It is a fact, Portugal is getting on the middle of the famous countries producing wines, every day our brands are talked about more and more, for the quality they stand for, especially in red wines. But what if the Portuguese whites would follow this path to become some of the best in the world? Here, between you and me, I think we are already on our way. I’ve wanted to write about this for some time. And no, I am not trying to mess with Pedro Garcias, who has touched this subject on a recent article in Fugas (Público) in a, let’s say, less optimistic way.

It is true that my opinion is completely biased. I am a Burgundy lover, and my consumption ratio of white to red must be around 70-30%. My bias might be because the first bottled wine I ever tasted was a Loureiro, super aromatic with a slight bubble, that my grandfather kept at home brought from a friend living in Ponte de Lima. And boy, did I like that stuff!

But this is why I believe we can have incredible white wines: we have exceptional white grape varieties! Portugal is well known for its vast diversity on autochthonous varieties. Among white and red, we have over 250 grape varieties, making us one of the most original and exciting countries. But to me, and I am sorry, it’s the white varieties that stand out. Every year, during harvest, I am impressed with new “expressions” that we can find in the different locations where we test some of them. In 2017 harvest, I was once again surprised.

Yes, Portugal is a country with reasonably hot weather, most people label us as a red wine country – and Porto Wine, of course – but we equally have some colder regions, where we can fulfil the potential of becoming the country with the most original white wines in the world!

I will highlight some of these grape varieties:

Alvarinho

It is the queen of the white varieties in Portugal. For obvious reasons, I had to talk about it first. It was with this variety that it all started for me. But the fact is, this is a world class grape variety, elevated to a unique level by the experimentation done by masters, like Anselmo Mendes. From Vinho Verde region, it being young or old, it is defining its own space among the great white wines of the world. And oh how we like the way it adapts and adds “seasoning” to the whites of other regions.

Loureiro

As I said, I think it was the first bottled wine I tasted in my life, thanks to my grandfather’s friends that showed up at Beira Interior for some hunting and drinking days. Its floral character is always present, but the most impressive in good Loureiro wines it’s its ageing potential. Truly a surprise.

Avesso

A discovery made even later than Loureiro. I have dealt a lot with this variety, through the project Cazas Novas, and its potential is exciting. Original from the border between Douro Valley and Vinho Verde region, it’s planted in granite soils, it gives origin to wines with great minerality, good acidity and excellent balance. You should pay attention to it.

Arinto

Arinto is the grape that balances out the wines in Portugal. It’s present in regions from North to South and is an enhancing variety, for its natural acidity and for the citric touch it gives the wines. But it can also work very well on its own, especially in the regions of Lisbon and Bairrada, where the freshness of the climate enhances its expression.

Viosinho

Pay very, but very attention to Viosinho. It is original from Douro Valley, but today we can find it all over the country. I will give you an example of what we have done with it at Adega Mãe in Lisbon Region: it is only my favourite variety, present in all the great whites we produce. But attention, because as a monovarietal wine it is extraordinary, jumping to a fantastic level with some years of oak barrel ageing.

Encruzado

The greatest white variety in Dão Region, it the Portuguese Chardonnay, providing us with full-bodied wines, with significant presence on the palate, minerality and elegance. The mix of granite soils and altitude gives us tremendous wines, with excellent ageing potential.

Bical

It is the most important white grape in Bairrada. These wines are very mineral. And, as they have the greatest ageing capacity, they hold their own on an oak barrel fermentation. The best examples of this grape come from clay-limestone soils.

Antão Vaz

The queen of white grapes in Alentejo. Full of originality, it surprises a lot on the palate; it is filled with texture and volume. Especially at Vidigueira, where it is the boss!

Síria

Also known as Roupeiro in the south of Portugal. It is a very interesting grape, but I mostly admire its behaviour in the granite soils of Beira Interior.

Verdelho

One of my passions. Naturally, I pick out the behaviour of this variety in the Azores, both in Biscoitos and Pico, where we produce some of the most original wines in the country right now.

Gouveio

A grape variety I like more and more. We can find great examples in Dão Region, fine wines and full of character.

Fernão Pires

The most widely planted white variety in Portugal. Present in all the regions. Produces very well and is generous to the grape grower. When harvested on time it produces very expressive whites, with fine floral notes and elegance. In Bairrada this variety is known as Maria Gomes.

Malvasia and…Others

In Portugal, we can find this variety mainly in Dão Region and the small region of Colares. Naturally, with very different profiles, but very authentic. Like Malvasia, we could go on and speak about Cerceal, Rabigato, Códega do Larinho, Vital… We do have great white grape varieties, what we need is to work with them because the quality is unique and it will end up being recognised.